Austria’s Underappreciated Wines: Which to Taste This Month – Vienna Events

Lower Austria’s Thermenregion is home to several signature varieties, as remarkable as they are rare

In a wine world dominated by a limited number of superstar grapes like Austria’s Grüner Veltliner, it is illuminating to talk to a vintner who keeps old favorites alive. “Two hundred years ago, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler were among the most important grape varieties in the Thermenregion,” commented Bernhard Stadlmann of Weingut Stadlmann. We met at VieVinum, the biennial trade fair of Austrian vintners in the Hofburg in June. “Nowadays, there are only 72 and 113 hectares left of each.”

© Aleksandra Pawloff

Rotgipfler, a cross between the Traminer grape and the Rote Roter Veltliner, is an aromatic variety with elegant acidity. You often smell spices and taste fruits such as…

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